By Golden Webb
It's spring and the air is full of the saccharine watermelon scent of cactus rose in bloom. A cool early afternoon breeze buffets me as I follow cairns down a series of ledges until I am above the sheer walls of White Canyon. Cobalt oxide streaks delineate contours of almost perfect sheerness as the walls plunge down into the depths, down to sugar white sand, rippled mud, shimmering tanks and the liquid green of a lone cottonwood.
Due north is the cleft of Cheesebox Canyon, an artery of the mother canyon, its mouth shadowy and green. I seem to have lost the trail, see a pinyon pine snaking up the wall, use it to climb down, and drop onto softly yielding sand. The light in the canyon is indigo, the suns rays reflecting blue off varnished white walls, as if filtered through a polarizer. I take a few steps through sand and over mud, my body immersed in cool scented air, and the peace, stillness and mystery begin to work their drug-like magic.
Suddenly, from down-canyon, comes the howl of rushing wind. I whirl around &
Tom's Utah Canyoneering Guide offers illustrated route descriptions to canyons on the Colorado Platueau, including Zion National Park, Escalante National Monument, Robbers Roost, Cedar Mesa, North Wash, and San Rafael Swell. Explore for logistical and equipment requirements, along with great stories. Wire Pass slot canyon right before it converges with Buckskin Gulch. (in the background) Buckskin Gulch, located in southern Utah, it is one of the longest slot canyons in the world. Wire Pass is a much shorter and easier slot canyon hike that joins the Buckskin Gulch.
A huge golden eagle explodes around a bend in the canyon, with two ravens close behind. The eagle's wingspan is 7 or 8 feet, the canyon walls just wide enough to accommodate the great wings. The ravens circle the huge bird, one above, the other below. The one above dives for the eagle's head and when the eagle wheels to clutch at it with its claws, the raven below attacks, forcing the eagle to whirl through the air in its direction, and they do this dipping, wheeling dance down the canyon, all in complete silence, like a dream or a hallucination, until they disappear around the next curve.
Whoa.
Best Slot Canyons In Utah And Arizona
I wait for the electricity arcing down my spine to dissipate into the pooling sand at my feet and then I walk down over white sand and rippled mud toward the mouth of Cheesebox, the setting, and now the mood, perfect for another magical experience in the canyons.
Many people dream of bygone days when the earth was largely unexplored and the rounding horizon was still imbued with the mystery of the unknown. We read of Captain James Cook sailing into the sunset toward the undiscovered islands of the South Pacific or of Burton and Speke risking lion attacks and torture as they trudged through the wilds of Africa amongst hostile tribes, questing for the Mountains of the Moon and the source of the Nile, and we feel an intense nostalgia for a larger world in which such adventures were possible. And yet there are places, still, that remain untouched by the presence and the mind of man. Certain portions of the Sahara for example, the deepest jungles of the Congo and inaccessible, Lovecraftian Mountains-of-Madness type ranges in the arctic contain areas where no man has ever gone.
But it's the canyons and gorges of the world that remain the last frontier. We know more about the surface of Mars and the floor of the 35,802 feet deep Mariana Trench than we do about the inner sanctums of some of the worlds canyons, even some of the canyons here on the Colorado Plateau.
In China the Yangtze River slices through the flank of Jade Dragon Peak and forms the Tiger Leaping Gorge, a stretch of white water and sinuous canyon that is as inaccessible as it is mysterious. The travertine blue pools and waterfalls of China's mystical Huanlong Valley were only recently photographed by Westerners. The Barrancas of Mexico, including Copper Canyon and Barranca de Sinforosa, remain unexplored. The canyons, or wadis, of the Sinai Peninsula, sinuous slots that open onto the white sand beaches and coral lagoons of the Gulf of Aqaba, remain untouched, virtually unknown. And the water gorges that cut through the Blue Mountains of New South Wales in Australia have only recently begun to be explored.
Thus in some ways the depths of certain canyons are more mysterious than the dark side of the moon. Here, on the Colorado Plateau, are the worlds ultimate slots canyons _ clefts in the earth so narrow, so dark, so deep, that in many we don't know where they bottom out. Expert and pioneer canyoneers like Steve Allen of Colorado and Richard Fisher of Arizona have made first descents of many hitherto virgin, extreme canyons. But that often entailed stemming or chimneying over the darkest, coldest, narrowest, wettest, most gruesome cruxes of the route, simply because without scuba gear, spelunking equipment, and a rats ability to squeeze through a hole 1/8 the size of your body mass, it's physically impossible to plumb the absolute depths of some of these canyons.
No one, to my knowledge, has ever dived deep into the depths of the Black Hole of White Canyon, to see what's down there. Hundreds have swam through it, shivering, hypothermic, squeezing through the 90-degree corkscrew in the middle and then wading out laughing into the welcome sunshine where the canyon opens up. But what about the pools? What's down there, deep below our kicking legs? How deep do those pools go? Do they even have a bottom?
What about the deepest, narrowest stretches of Echo Canyon in Zion, or Brimstone Gulch in the Escalante, or the darkest pit in Gravel Canyon of the White Canyon drainage, where in certain places the walls are so tight, the stone so smooth and slick, the water so crude-oil black and glacier-melt cold, that it would be suicide to try and find the Ultimate Bottom, the Maximum Depth, the true Inner Sanctum of the canyon.
Suicide, or exciting as hell! So here, for your exploring pleasure, in no particular order, is our extremely subjective list of 10 of the worlds best canyons. Some are relatively tame, thoroughly explored, well beloved. Others are killers, dangerous, impossible, just sitting out there waiting to entomb somebody alive between squeezing walls.
Enjoy!
Stolen casino bmx bike 2019 review. Gravel Canyon
A side drainage of White Canyon, expert rock climbers only need apply. Chokestones, black pools, multiple rappels, stemming, chimneying, Anasazi ruins, near death experiences and sublime beauty await the adventurers who traverse this canyon.
Boulder Creek
My favorite place in the universe. Boulder Creek slips down off Boulder Mountain, carves a canyon of white walls and clear pools in its upper reaches, then dives deeper into the orange Kanyenta formation after its confluence with Deer Creek to form the funnest narrows wade-boulder hop-swim on earth. The water is so pure, so clear, the walls pumpkin orange, the green of cottonwoods and sage glowing in pure light ˜ its like you're swimming through a rainbow.
Salome Creek
Salome Creek is the showcase canyon for Arizona's many spectacular slots and gorges, most notably the side canyons of the Salt River and the canyons that cut through the Mogollon Rim. Located amongst the mesquite and cactus slopes of the Tonto National Forest, Salome forms crystalline pools, waterfalls, chutes and runways, an oasis in the midst of a dry desert.
Buckskin Gulch
Probably the longest deep slot canyon in the world. Quicksand, mud, standing pools that sometimes require swimming, and endless miles of scalloped, rippled walls awash in pink, lavendar, and orange light.
Dark Canyon
Just over the ridge from Natural Bridges National Monument, this majestic, epic canyon deserves a monument status all its own. Starting high on the flanks of the Abajo Mountains along Elk Ridge, a stream trickles down through aspen and ponderosa pine forests toward the Colorado. Many miles later it is a yawning gorge, with waterfalls, runways, and the deepest, clearest, most beautiful and inviting pools on earth.
West Canyon
Draining Cummings Mesa, West Canyon is like Buckskin Gulch only with waterfalls, pools, and a clear running stream. Best accessed from Lake Powell, its upper reaches are accessible only to the adventurous and technically experienced. Expect much rapelling and swimming. Many people rate this as the very best slot in the entire Mountain West.
White Canyon
Just west of Natural Bridges, White Canyon and its many tributaries has yet to be completely explored. Cheesebox, Fry, the aforementioned Gravel, and Long canyons are Terra Incognita, just waiting for some intrepid explorer to uncover their mysteries. The Black Hole of White Canyon is one of the most thrilling hikes in the world, with its 200-meter stretch of dark cold water and its sinuous, gorgeous slot. The Black Hole is the perfect introduction to more extreme canyoneering, as it doesn't require ropes or expert climbing skills, but it's no place for kids, youth groups, the out of shape, or the elderly.
Great West Canyon
Zion National Park is famous for slots. Indeed, the narrows of the North Fork of the Virgin is the most famous slot canyon hike in the world. Hundreds flock to Parunuweap Canyon along the East Fork, to Orderville, Kolob, and Deep Creeks which empty into the North Fork, and to the Left Fork of North Creek and its Subway. But the jewel of Zion is Great West Canyon. A route drops into the Right Fork of North Creek and goes through the Black Pools, a series of pot holes of indeterminate depth and temperature, and then enters the Grand Alcove, a place of such majesty and beauty that it rivals the legends of the Cathedral in the Desert, the crown jewel of Glen Canyon before it was drowned by Lake Powell. A rappel over Barrier Falls, a swim through its crystalline plunge pool, a scramble down the flank of Double Falls, and you've just traversed some of the most enchanted country on earth.
Chute of Muddy Creek
The San Rafael Swell is a region of spires and domes as spectacular as any Zion or Capitol Reef. It has hundreds of slots and narrows, most notably the Black Boxes of the San Rafael River and the slots of the Moroni Slopes. But the Swell's signature canyon is the Chute of Muddy Creek. The headwaters of Muddy Creek are high on the Sevier and Wasatch Plateaus, trickling springs among the lupine under aspen and spruce and pine. Far below the creek has cut a deep and goosenecked chute through Coconino Sandstone. This is the easiest of the showcased canyons, if you call wading, slipping in mud, and boulder hopping easy.
Death Hollow
An ominous name for an epic canyon. It starts high on Hell's Backbone as a wide gorge with towering ponderosas and sheer white walls. A third of the way down are gruesome pools that must be negotiated and poison ivy that must be avoided. Towards the end the canyon walls are so high and bulky they're like skyscrapers, the work of some divinely inspired architect, and the pools under these walls are considered by many to be the most lovely in the Escalante, green and clear and deep and purifying.
So put away your H. Rider Haggard, turn off Raiders of the Lost Ark, grasp your ropes, your boots, your river-type dry bag, your faded leather jacket and bullwhip, and head south for the greatest adventure in the history of mankind. Because the discovery of the Golden City of Eldorado, King Solomons Mines, or even the mythic spoils of Genghis Kan hidden somewhere deep in the Mongolian steppes is nothing compared to the precious stones, the vistas, the danger, the lurking creatures, and the magic awaiting you in the neverbeforeseen depths of the undiscovered canyons of the Back of Beyond.
Copyright Dave Webb, 2005
You may love hiking, but you've never fully experienced adventure hiking until you've explored some slot canyons. Slot canyon hiking is a mellower cousin of technical canyoneering, but it's far more involved and exciting than your standard saunter through the desert.
Indeed, slot canyoning is an exercise in human Slinky-ness: You shimmy, scramble, wade, scoot, slog, crawl, and problem-solve. You're generally shaded from the blistering desert sun, and as most slots have water puddles (if not outright streams and pools), you can cool off along the way. This makes them an option even during primetime summer in Utah.
Of course, slot canyons come with their own set of dangers, so it's best to be prepared ahead of time and stay on your toes in the moment. Navigation isn't always straightforward, so excellent route-finding skills and a topo map are a must. Also, keep in mind that slot canyons aren't usually dog-friendly if they involve very tight spaces and scrambling.
You'll also need to keep a sharp eye on the weather report: If there's been any rain locally or uphill of the area, or if there's any rain in the near forecast, be extremely careful of flash floods. They come with little warning, and if you're miles into a slot with no escape, it can spell serious trouble. But if there's no rain in sight and none on the way, you're good to go. Consult with a local ranger if you want an authoritative opinion.
Many slots also require a cross-country schlep to get back to your starting point, and these walks are usually in full sun, with diminutive cairns that blend into the landscape. So you'll want to be on full alert to stay on the right path, and keep plenty of water in your supply for this section of the journey. In addition, you'll need a handy map, good route-finding skills, a good attitude about scrambling and scootching, and a cooler full of beer back at the car. You will have earned it by the end of your excursion.
Here, a primer on exploring southern Utah's best slot canyons—hikes you'll remember for the rest of your life.
1. Best Add-On to a Goblin Valley Trip: Little Wild Horse
You'll want to budget the better part of a day to explore Little Wild Horse canyon's eight miles of winding redrock slots and stunning open spaces. The trailhead is found in the Goblin Valley area, which has a lot to explore and ample camp spots. But Little Wild Horse is a treasure within an extraordinary landscape.
In China the Yangtze River slices through the flank of Jade Dragon Peak and forms the Tiger Leaping Gorge, a stretch of white water and sinuous canyon that is as inaccessible as it is mysterious. The travertine blue pools and waterfalls of China's mystical Huanlong Valley were only recently photographed by Westerners. The Barrancas of Mexico, including Copper Canyon and Barranca de Sinforosa, remain unexplored. The canyons, or wadis, of the Sinai Peninsula, sinuous slots that open onto the white sand beaches and coral lagoons of the Gulf of Aqaba, remain untouched, virtually unknown. And the water gorges that cut through the Blue Mountains of New South Wales in Australia have only recently begun to be explored.
Thus in some ways the depths of certain canyons are more mysterious than the dark side of the moon. Here, on the Colorado Plateau, are the worlds ultimate slots canyons _ clefts in the earth so narrow, so dark, so deep, that in many we don't know where they bottom out. Expert and pioneer canyoneers like Steve Allen of Colorado and Richard Fisher of Arizona have made first descents of many hitherto virgin, extreme canyons. But that often entailed stemming or chimneying over the darkest, coldest, narrowest, wettest, most gruesome cruxes of the route, simply because without scuba gear, spelunking equipment, and a rats ability to squeeze through a hole 1/8 the size of your body mass, it's physically impossible to plumb the absolute depths of some of these canyons.
No one, to my knowledge, has ever dived deep into the depths of the Black Hole of White Canyon, to see what's down there. Hundreds have swam through it, shivering, hypothermic, squeezing through the 90-degree corkscrew in the middle and then wading out laughing into the welcome sunshine where the canyon opens up. But what about the pools? What's down there, deep below our kicking legs? How deep do those pools go? Do they even have a bottom?
What about the deepest, narrowest stretches of Echo Canyon in Zion, or Brimstone Gulch in the Escalante, or the darkest pit in Gravel Canyon of the White Canyon drainage, where in certain places the walls are so tight, the stone so smooth and slick, the water so crude-oil black and glacier-melt cold, that it would be suicide to try and find the Ultimate Bottom, the Maximum Depth, the true Inner Sanctum of the canyon.
Suicide, or exciting as hell! So here, for your exploring pleasure, in no particular order, is our extremely subjective list of 10 of the worlds best canyons. Some are relatively tame, thoroughly explored, well beloved. Others are killers, dangerous, impossible, just sitting out there waiting to entomb somebody alive between squeezing walls.
Enjoy!
Stolen casino bmx bike 2019 review. Gravel Canyon
A side drainage of White Canyon, expert rock climbers only need apply. Chokestones, black pools, multiple rappels, stemming, chimneying, Anasazi ruins, near death experiences and sublime beauty await the adventurers who traverse this canyon.
Boulder Creek
My favorite place in the universe. Boulder Creek slips down off Boulder Mountain, carves a canyon of white walls and clear pools in its upper reaches, then dives deeper into the orange Kanyenta formation after its confluence with Deer Creek to form the funnest narrows wade-boulder hop-swim on earth. The water is so pure, so clear, the walls pumpkin orange, the green of cottonwoods and sage glowing in pure light ˜ its like you're swimming through a rainbow.
Salome Creek
Salome Creek is the showcase canyon for Arizona's many spectacular slots and gorges, most notably the side canyons of the Salt River and the canyons that cut through the Mogollon Rim. Located amongst the mesquite and cactus slopes of the Tonto National Forest, Salome forms crystalline pools, waterfalls, chutes and runways, an oasis in the midst of a dry desert.
Buckskin Gulch
Probably the longest deep slot canyon in the world. Quicksand, mud, standing pools that sometimes require swimming, and endless miles of scalloped, rippled walls awash in pink, lavendar, and orange light.
Dark Canyon
Just over the ridge from Natural Bridges National Monument, this majestic, epic canyon deserves a monument status all its own. Starting high on the flanks of the Abajo Mountains along Elk Ridge, a stream trickles down through aspen and ponderosa pine forests toward the Colorado. Many miles later it is a yawning gorge, with waterfalls, runways, and the deepest, clearest, most beautiful and inviting pools on earth.
West Canyon
Draining Cummings Mesa, West Canyon is like Buckskin Gulch only with waterfalls, pools, and a clear running stream. Best accessed from Lake Powell, its upper reaches are accessible only to the adventurous and technically experienced. Expect much rapelling and swimming. Many people rate this as the very best slot in the entire Mountain West.
White Canyon
Just west of Natural Bridges, White Canyon and its many tributaries has yet to be completely explored. Cheesebox, Fry, the aforementioned Gravel, and Long canyons are Terra Incognita, just waiting for some intrepid explorer to uncover their mysteries. The Black Hole of White Canyon is one of the most thrilling hikes in the world, with its 200-meter stretch of dark cold water and its sinuous, gorgeous slot. The Black Hole is the perfect introduction to more extreme canyoneering, as it doesn't require ropes or expert climbing skills, but it's no place for kids, youth groups, the out of shape, or the elderly.
Great West Canyon
Zion National Park is famous for slots. Indeed, the narrows of the North Fork of the Virgin is the most famous slot canyon hike in the world. Hundreds flock to Parunuweap Canyon along the East Fork, to Orderville, Kolob, and Deep Creeks which empty into the North Fork, and to the Left Fork of North Creek and its Subway. But the jewel of Zion is Great West Canyon. A route drops into the Right Fork of North Creek and goes through the Black Pools, a series of pot holes of indeterminate depth and temperature, and then enters the Grand Alcove, a place of such majesty and beauty that it rivals the legends of the Cathedral in the Desert, the crown jewel of Glen Canyon before it was drowned by Lake Powell. A rappel over Barrier Falls, a swim through its crystalline plunge pool, a scramble down the flank of Double Falls, and you've just traversed some of the most enchanted country on earth.
Chute of Muddy Creek
The San Rafael Swell is a region of spires and domes as spectacular as any Zion or Capitol Reef. It has hundreds of slots and narrows, most notably the Black Boxes of the San Rafael River and the slots of the Moroni Slopes. But the Swell's signature canyon is the Chute of Muddy Creek. The headwaters of Muddy Creek are high on the Sevier and Wasatch Plateaus, trickling springs among the lupine under aspen and spruce and pine. Far below the creek has cut a deep and goosenecked chute through Coconino Sandstone. This is the easiest of the showcased canyons, if you call wading, slipping in mud, and boulder hopping easy.
Death Hollow
An ominous name for an epic canyon. It starts high on Hell's Backbone as a wide gorge with towering ponderosas and sheer white walls. A third of the way down are gruesome pools that must be negotiated and poison ivy that must be avoided. Towards the end the canyon walls are so high and bulky they're like skyscrapers, the work of some divinely inspired architect, and the pools under these walls are considered by many to be the most lovely in the Escalante, green and clear and deep and purifying.
So put away your H. Rider Haggard, turn off Raiders of the Lost Ark, grasp your ropes, your boots, your river-type dry bag, your faded leather jacket and bullwhip, and head south for the greatest adventure in the history of mankind. Because the discovery of the Golden City of Eldorado, King Solomons Mines, or even the mythic spoils of Genghis Kan hidden somewhere deep in the Mongolian steppes is nothing compared to the precious stones, the vistas, the danger, the lurking creatures, and the magic awaiting you in the neverbeforeseen depths of the undiscovered canyons of the Back of Beyond.
Copyright Dave Webb, 2005
You may love hiking, but you've never fully experienced adventure hiking until you've explored some slot canyons. Slot canyon hiking is a mellower cousin of technical canyoneering, but it's far more involved and exciting than your standard saunter through the desert.
Indeed, slot canyoning is an exercise in human Slinky-ness: You shimmy, scramble, wade, scoot, slog, crawl, and problem-solve. You're generally shaded from the blistering desert sun, and as most slots have water puddles (if not outright streams and pools), you can cool off along the way. This makes them an option even during primetime summer in Utah.
Of course, slot canyons come with their own set of dangers, so it's best to be prepared ahead of time and stay on your toes in the moment. Navigation isn't always straightforward, so excellent route-finding skills and a topo map are a must. Also, keep in mind that slot canyons aren't usually dog-friendly if they involve very tight spaces and scrambling.
You'll also need to keep a sharp eye on the weather report: If there's been any rain locally or uphill of the area, or if there's any rain in the near forecast, be extremely careful of flash floods. They come with little warning, and if you're miles into a slot with no escape, it can spell serious trouble. But if there's no rain in sight and none on the way, you're good to go. Consult with a local ranger if you want an authoritative opinion.
Many slots also require a cross-country schlep to get back to your starting point, and these walks are usually in full sun, with diminutive cairns that blend into the landscape. So you'll want to be on full alert to stay on the right path, and keep plenty of water in your supply for this section of the journey. In addition, you'll need a handy map, good route-finding skills, a good attitude about scrambling and scootching, and a cooler full of beer back at the car. You will have earned it by the end of your excursion.
Here, a primer on exploring southern Utah's best slot canyons—hikes you'll remember for the rest of your life.
1. Best Add-On to a Goblin Valley Trip: Little Wild Horse
You'll want to budget the better part of a day to explore Little Wild Horse canyon's eight miles of winding redrock slots and stunning open spaces. The trailhead is found in the Goblin Valley area, which has a lot to explore and ample camp spots. But Little Wild Horse is a treasure within an extraordinary landscape.
The hike makes a loop that brings you back to the trailhead lot—and along the way you'll wind, scramble, and shimmy through narrow rock slots, then open up in a flat riverbed, amble along a dirt path, and finally land back in rocky narrows as you complete the loop back to your car.
2. Best Long-Haul Hike: Buckskin Gulch
Buckskin Gulch is one of the longest and deepest slot canyons on the planet—and it's found just a ways outside Kanab, Utah. Over the course of 13 miles, it rarely gets wider than 20 feet, and in many sections it's just wide enough to walk through with your pack.
The hike is long enough that many people make an overnight backpacking trip out of it, leaving a shuttle car at one end. If you're coming in with overnight gear, you may want to put key items like your sleeping bag and change of clothing in a dry bag.
Another option: Go as far as you can for the day, then turn back to where you started. One high-stakes factor is that because the canyon is so long, it takes a while to get out of if a rainstorm comes through, which means you're exposed to serious flash-flood danger in a contained area. Be smart about only hiking it when there are no storms in sight—and no storms upstream, either.
You need to snag a permit for this hike, and remember to wear water-friendly shoes in case you end up slogging a bit deep in the canyon. A detailed guidebook and topographical map are recommended as well.
3. Best for Epic Wading: Zion Narrows
Hiking the Narrows takes some logistics and thoughtful packing, to be sure, but it's beyond worthwhile. You'll travel 16 miles through one of the most glorious gorges in the world, your feet kept cool in the Virgin River, as you gaze upward at the 2,000 feet of soaring redrock cliffs on either side of you.
Zion National Park bustles in the summer, brimming with tourists (so many, in fact, that the park recently closed the main road to private vehicles and requires visitors to take shuttle buses instead). So it makes sense that the most accessible part of the Narrows, the bottom, is heavily tracked. But hiking the narrows from the top, 16 miles upstream, removes you from the masses and lets you take in the canyon's full splendor in peace.
You'll need to plan for a permit, pack light, wear water-friendly shoes, bring a water purifier, and keep your group size reasonable (12 people or less, but honestly a much smaller group is more enjoyable). You'll also need to arrange a car shuttle to get back to your starting point at Chamberlain's Ranch, a 1.5-hour drive away. Each day you'll have to hike the full day, usually wading through water, which feels delightfully refreshing when you're backpacking in the desert. At your mid-way point you can find an established camp site (there are several to choose from) and settle in for a night under the starry sky.
4. Best for Acrobatic Contortions: Peek-a-Boo and Spooky Canyons
Technically, Peek-a-Boo and Spooky are two different canyons, but they're often paired together in one loop hike since they run alongside one another. Everything about these canyons is an adventure, starting with their location in the Escalante area, a surreal landscape of twisting slots and crannies carved into the ancient desert. And the drive to the trailhead takes you 26 miles down the Hole-In-The-Rock dirt road, a historic wagon trail. You'll then meander down the rugged Dry Fork road to an overlook parking lot. And then the hike begins.
Slot Canyon Hikes In Utah
From the belly of Dry Fork Canyon, you'll access Peek-a-Boo gulch by scrambling up a set of stair steps carved into the rock. You'll ascend up this slot canyon till you top out on the plateau above, then walk a short distance southward till you get to the next sandy wash that drops into Spooky Canyon. You can descend through Spooky to get back to Dry Fork Canyon where you started.
